MASTERCLASS
PORTLANDपोर्टलँड
PENSOLE
VIBRAM + W HOTEL
FEBRUARY - MARCH 2017
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_0795f69bdb714f5bb0f225ad95a8d6cbf000.jpg/v1/fill/w_1280,h_720,al_c,q_85,enc_auto/e065b3_0795f69bdb714f5bb0f225ad95a8d6cbf000.jpg)
2017
In February 2017 I got the opportunity to be part of a Masterclass and learn FOOTWEAR + COLOUR MATERIAL Design from the best in the footwear industry at PENSOLE Academy in Portland.
CONTEXT
PENSOLE
PORTLAND
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_9be763e0407e4da980f527f40d27d29f~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_1097,h_617,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_9be763e0407e4da980f527f40d27d29f~mv2.png)
Contemporary aesthetics of the W.
CHEF ISABELLA WILLIAMS
THE STORY
A shoe for the chef of the W hotel.
Gourmet chef
Works in LA, Hollywood
Inspired by Ballet as a child.
Born and raised in London
GRACE IN MOVEMENT
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_79b1a64e81914a67b33f756e47d1c329~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_280,h_420,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_79b1a64e81914a67b33f756e47d1c329~mv2.jpg)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_f069a11da6ab4a67b18c1c04915095cd~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_772,h_434,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_f069a11da6ab4a67b18c1c04915095cd~mv2.png)
Since Isabella was inspired by Ballet as a child, I studied the movement to translate this story.
THE PROBLEMS
Along with telling a story, the footwear also needed to solve certain problems for the user. So I analysed the problems faced by a chef in a commercial kitchen.
SPILLAGE GETS STUCK IN THE SOLE
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_57b0f455886f497ab2abb972494f30ad~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_236,h_420,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_57b0f455886f497ab2abb972494f30ad~mv2.jpg)
SLIPPERY SURFACES
EXCESS HEAT
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_3dc6159581c743efa8d8a714337e77d7~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_364,h_205,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_3dc6159581c743efa8d8a714337e77d7~mv2.jpg)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_155f8948d2784083998daeba102de431~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_364,h_205,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_155f8948d2784083998daeba102de431~mv2.jpg)
SPILLAGE OF FOOD
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_5fb3cbbe6a0e45b582d277c6b0da6b98~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_364,h_205,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_5fb3cbbe6a0e45b582d277c6b0da6b98~mv2.jpg)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_24afb29a365747728684894d27e9eb2e~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_364,h_205,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_24afb29a365747728684894d27e9eb2e~mv2.jpg)
LACK OF GOOD GRIP
Highlighting movement constraints inside the kitchen.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_8304ee558dde4535911ca581f617e20e~mv2.png/v1/crop/x_845,y_0,w_1075,h_1077/fill/w_508,h_509,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_8304ee558dde4535911ca581f617e20e~mv2.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_ebc37402c94c4696b80762e654e4d937~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_777,h_437,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_ebc37402c94c4696b80762e654e4d937~mv2.png)
TRANSLATE STORY TO SHOE
Taking these two aspects into consideration - of telling a story while solving a problem, I went on to ideate the profile and outsole.
MOCKUP VALIDATION
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_ad5422c3af494618ad73e7038bd540d5~mv2.jpg/v1/crop/x_18,y_5,w_1772,h_1073/fill/w_708,h_429,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_ad5422c3af494618ad73e7038bd540d5~mv2.jpg)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_06e0ee40c53d4e84b50e5228743603a6~mv2.jpg/v1/crop/x_0,y_3,w_1770,h_1075/fill/w_706,h_429,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_06e0ee40c53d4e84b50e5228743603a6~mv2.jpg)
Having seen the results of ideating with mockups before,
I went on to make quick tape-ups to validate the chosen design.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_8ad04e44f9354281bbf5a607ea101b49~mv2.jpg/v1/crop/x_0,y_0,w_2188,h_3162/fill/w_316,h_456,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_8ad04e44f9354281bbf5a607ea101b49~mv2.jpg)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_8ad04e44f9354281bbf5a607ea101b49~mv2.jpg/v1/crop/x_2501,y_950,w_1146,h_1742/fill/w_209,h_318,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_8ad04e44f9354281bbf5a607ea101b49~mv2.jpg)
DEFINING THE COLOURS AND MATERIALS
After a visit to the W hotel, I created a colour and materials board inspired by the vibrant nightlife and aesthetics of the hotel.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_475af324e98c4c58abc98ae27214a0ea~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_670,h_285,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_475af324e98c4c58abc98ae27214a0ea~mv2.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_83ab6e2c00754759994b04e0f5d02a61~mv2.png/v1/crop/x_734,y_591,w_1020,h_461/fill/w_292,h_132,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_83ab6e2c00754759994b04e0f5d02a61~mv2.png)
VIBRAM XS WORK
ARIAPRENE 2MM AP REV
+ ATF 060
+ DUOPEL MEMBRANE
+ RPAW91
MICRO - FIBER
ARIAPRENE PRO + RPAW91
TIRNEINA NUBUCK
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_3997f9bc20aa4c3691f25cb9f711f189~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_1428,h_803,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_3997f9bc20aa4c3691f25cb9f711f189~mv2.jpg)
THE STORY
The shoe aims to tell the story the chef who pursued her dream of becoming an executive chef of the W hotel.
The side view takes inspiration from the fluidity in movement of ballet.
THE UPPER
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_a6ed3a60a9194ead9d23647a3c65e32a~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_1220,h_686,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_a6ed3a60a9194ead9d23647a3c65e32a~mv2.png)
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_bcbf896b0d5e43a092ff7b20bfaec93d~mv2.png/v1/fill/w_1219,h_686,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_bcbf896b0d5e43a092ff7b20bfaec93d~mv2.png)
The mid top silhouette provides better angle support while still maintaining a low ground profile.The lateral quarter sign allows roll-over for the foot, while the straps are fastened by Velcro.
![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_8bab6a149ff7467b96104f45c68cc6a3~mv2.jpg/v1/crop/x_0,y_610,w_3840,h_2264/fill/w_1435,h_846,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_8bab6a149ff7467b96104f45c68cc6a3~mv2.jpg)
TOOLING + SOLE
The Vibram outsole is designed to push the liquids in the outward direction .
If something gets stuck in the sole, the large grooves make it very easy to bend the sole and remove the particles.
![top view](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_2e8f624a46e148a79c8bcd3a7e3fa19a~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_551,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_2e8f624a46e148a79c8bcd3a7e3fa19a~mv2.jpg)
![top view glow](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_a9f85b297b31462bbcd5d102232221ac~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_551,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_a9f85b297b31462bbcd5d102232221ac~mv2.jpg)
![top view](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e065b3_2e8f624a46e148a79c8bcd3a7e3fa19a~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_551,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/e065b3_2e8f624a46e148a79c8bcd3a7e3fa19a~mv2.jpg)
THE W AESTHETIC
Along with the functionality of the chef footwear, the design is representative of the W hotel aesthetic as well.